I custom shaped these kits to protect those areas on your bike at risk from the scratches and such that cycling can throw at them. It isn’t bulletproof or a magical force field for your bike but it’s been very good at keeping the nasties off many bikes to date. The kit is made using a premium automotive grade paint protection film, designed specifically to protect paintwork from stone chips. It has outstanding durability and outdoor performance, with excellent UV light, humidity and salt spray resistance.

Frameskin custom-shaped kits offer comprehensive protection from stone chips, scrapes, cable and boot rub. Frameskin will keep your bike looking better for longer and will improve resale value over bikes with no paint protection. A standard kit includes custom-shaped decals for top tube, down tube, chainstays and seatstays as well as a selection of various size dots and shapes for protection against cable rub and wear.

Application Tips:

Frameskin film is best applied using the wet method and with the aid of a hair dryer as with added warmth the media softens to become more pliable/conformable to the frame’s lines. Simple curved areas and small shapes may not need much heat to go down well.

Clean bike, clean hands
Make sure the frame is thoroughly cleaned and free of grease/oil/lint. Clean it twice to be sure. Make sure your hands are also very clean and don’t touch the adhesive side if possible.

The aim of careful application is to have no air bubbles trapped underneath the film for the best finish.
Tools

• The supplied mini squeegee* will assist in chasing bubbles from beneath the media as you stick it to the frame. Your will find your fingers also do a very good job at chasing bubbles and helping the film to sit down on the frame (* included with custom-shaped frame kits)
• A container of hot water with a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid.
• A hair dryer or heat gun.

The shapes diagram is labelled to be as descriptive as possible, but take your time to work out just where each piece goes to achieve the best fit. Work the rear suspension up and down to view how the cables travel across/against the frame. You can ask me for photos if anything is confusing, or you are uncertain which way up a particular decal goes. The bigger the decal, the more challenging it can be, so start small and gain confidence and experience as you go. There are a number of extra dots of various size for where you feel a decal would prevent rub/wear.

Wet or Dry Application.
We recommend the wet application method and suggest a warm room as an ideal place to apply the kit. Decals can be applied dry, though wet application will offer a degree of slip positioning for larger decals. It is your choice. If you are not confident with dry application, wet application may be a safer option as you get more goes at getting the placement correct.

Wet Method: Peel the decal from its backing and dip it in the container of hot water/detergent. Let the excess water drip back into the container, as it doesn’t need to be super wet to work well. Position the decal as accurately as possible to where you want it and from one end, use your fingers (or roller/squeegee) to walk the material down onto the frame making sure that it is following the line you have chosen and that no air bubbles are trapped underneath the surface. Once in position, use your finger to expel any bubbles, and then use the hair dryer to help dry off the areas of the decal that are not sitting down completely. Note: Because the decal is wet, this can take a little while... so take your time, and do the best job you can. Let the decals dry fully before going out to play on your bike, and inspect all decals to make sure all the edges are sitting down.

Dry Apply Method: Peel the backing from the decal taking care not to touch the adhesive surface. Position the decal and start by sticking it down by one end and using a finger/roller/squeegee you walk the material down onto the frame making sure that it is following the line you have chosen and that no air bubbles are trapped underneath the surface. Using a hair dryer will soften the film and activate the adhesive for better adhesion.

Removal of Frameskin: If you wish to remove or replace the decals at some point in the future, do not just yank them off. Doing so can remove clearcoat or paint. Just like during installation, warming the decal with a hair dryer will softens the adhesive bond to the frame. Use your fingernail to lift an edge and slowly peel the decal off as you apply heat. Take care, and take your time. Note: Touch up paint under the decal may come off with the adhesive.

Beer will not make this job any easier, but that’s no reason not to have a one.

Questions/Comments?

If you are experiencing difficulty, or are confused about what part goes where, contact us. We can assist with additional advice and photos.

Disclaimer: The techniques described above are intended as an overview of the vinyl manufacturers’s suggested installation and removal methods. No responsibility is implied or given for property damage, injury or any other liability resulting from the use of these methods, or the installation of decals on any surface. If you are not confident about applying the decals yourself, consult a professional vinyl signage installer for advice/assistance. These kits are designed and made by me, and are not connected with any bicycle manufacturer.